Straw Bale Construction in Missouri

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Moisture in Underventilated Structures = Public Enemy No. 1

Posted by Richard on May 11, 2009

We’re observing a noble effort to demonstrate energy management by active Weatherization Programs which will no doubt beef up insulation in homes, make every effort to stop air leaks (or circulation), and in general make each structure in the program a “tight ship”.

Here is where I have a real problem with the Weatherization Program.  In my opinion, we are basically trading heating bills for future medical bills. Making the structure hyper-insulated, by stopping air flow (in and out), increased moisture is locked into the system.

To much moisture in a house can be devastating over time. When a structure cannot ‘breathe’, the trapped moisture has every chance to turn to fungus, mold, bacteria….illness and medical issues.  But, by golly, we saved some fuel.

I lived many years in the high country of Wyoming where the humidity is in the teens through the thirties most of the time. We did not worry about to much moisture but our skin was always dry and the furniture joints came apart. We could get by with minimal ventilation in our houses.  But, even there, sealed vents and no cracks could lead to unhealthy moisture levels, particularly in bathrooms where the sheetrock in some structures would go to moldy mush.

Missouri is a whole different game with a range of 50% to 100% humidity.

Occupants in the house are breathing, cooking,  running water for laundry, showers, etc.   The interior humidity is generally higher than that on the outside. That moisture has to go somewhere.

If the house can not breathe because it has been sealed like a plastic bag with non permeable house wrap, vinyl or steel siding and every crack and joint caulked, the moisture soaks the framing lumber, sheathing, insulation, sheetrock or other wall coverings and the windows sweat. Where air is not available, mostly inside the walls, mold forms.

Additionally, we now have a problem with radon gas; it can’t escape either.

Ever wonder why cancer is more prevalent today than it was a hundred years ago? Houses used to be drafty, people may have thought they would freeze to death but they didn’t.  They didn’t suffer as greatly from cancer causing mold and radon either.  Soft remediation for radon is to keep a window cracked when the levels have been shown to be higher than desirable.  Simple answer: ventilation.

Properly built strawbale houses are one up on conventional houses because they breath and at the same time are not drafty. A lime or earth plaster over the straw bales will let moisture through but stops the wind.

If you live in one of today’s “well built” conventional houses, you need some way of exchanging the inside air with the outside. The most efficient way is with an air exchanger. Do a Google search and you will find several brands. They all work on the same principal, as the inside air is exhausted it heats the outside air coming in with a minimal temperature lose, which is made up for and then some by the house being dryer, especially the insulation.

Without regard for the mold and radon issues, damp insulation drastically looses it’s effectiveness. Suddenly, all that fuel we were saving is being called for to produce heat in a wet environment of soppy insulation. Ventilation doesn’t mean that there must be harsh air exchange that affects the thermal comfort of a home or office.  Major drafts can gobble up lots of fuel. Soggy insulation will not provide the protection promised; causing occupants to call for more heat, burning more fuel.

The down side to an air exchanger is maintenance. It has to be kept clean. It is easy to understand that if mold grows in the damp dust and lint of the air exchanger, it will be scattering mold spores all over the house.

Another option that will make a difference is a well ventilated attic. And I mean well ventilated. Use natural air flow, it’s cheaper and doesn’t consume energy. Louvers in the end peaks of the structure can make a lot of difference.

Think carefully before you accept weatherization services.  Insist on some ventilation situation to protect that extra insulation and keep it dry so it can do its true magic for your house.

Lastly, don’t yell at the kids for leaving the door open an extra minute as they reach back for the school books; they are doing you a favor.  They are making an air exchange for you!  It may seem like you’re going to burn more gas or oil, but it will be a healthier burn today than in a sealed up tomb of a house tomorrow.

This my opinion and I would be glad to hear yours. Thanks for reading this, keep your house dry, Richard

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Stop right there….Evil Termites

Posted by Richard on April 14, 2009

Over at Straw Bale Construction at Cardinal Bluff, I have post with some ideas about termite prevention in straw bale construction.

Missouri, according to the International Building Codebook, is prime country for termites. I am also convinced that tales assuring us that they don’t bother straw are myths.  I would recommend taking any steps possible to keep them out of any organic or plant fiber building materials.

Remember, termites avoid coming out into light, but must have water.  If their easy movement resources between darkness and water are interrupted, they cannot survive.

Check out the rest of my comments at Keeping Termites at Bay (or Even Stopping Them).  Thanks, Richard.

Posted in Straw Bale Construction Issues, Termites | Tagged: , , | Leave a Comment »

Equality in Straw Bales is Rare

Posted by Richard on April 9, 2009

As discussed over at Straw Bale Construction at Cardinal Bluff, we recently placed bales into the walls of a house in The Straw Bale Construction Initiative Program. We quickly learned the value of perfectly square bales, which there were few of. The bales we used are firm and dense (top priority) but are not perfectly square. Not even close.  The differences weren’t real noticeable until we were up several courses. The bales were a little bit thicker on the cut side than on the folded side. We stacked all of them cut side in.  As a result they leaned to the outside. The reason for this is connected to the machine adjustment on the baler; not enough straw was being pushed by the feeding fingers to the back side of the bale. We should have noticed that the bales were slightly banana shaped which also leaves a gap on one side between the ends of the bales in the wall. The banana shape also means the bale is tighter on one side than other.

All bales are not alike even if they came from the same baling machine. A lot of things determine if a bale will be dense and square coming out of the baler,

  • *moisture content in the straw,
  • volume the baler is being fed,
  • course or fine stems,
  • feeder finger adjustment and
  • the operator’s attitude. If there is rain in the forecast the attitude is generally not an issue, the objective is get the straw in the barn NOW.

To avoid the problem we had, bales with this shape should be stacked alternately; one bale cut side in and the next cut side out. If the bales are too banana shaped reject them.

Remember, when you pick up a bale and it sags end to end reject it. A dense, firm bale will not sag. When buying bales check the overall appearance for brightness of color, density and squareness. Buy about 10% more than you need so you can be picky which ones you use. The rejects make good mulch for your garden. Until next time keep your bales dry,

Richard

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